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The Ultimate Guide To Container Gardening

It is all too common for people living in apartments, rental properties or houses with small or no outside space to feel that their gardening options are limited, but this is no longer the case thanks to the humble but incredibly effective container garden. Planting in containers as oppose to planting directly in the ground is a popular, effective and versatile way to create your own garden no matter what your space limitations may be, this means that growing plants is no longer restricted to large spaces and having your own private garden.

We have created this guide to help you get your container garden started so whether you are a complete gardening novice or a green-fingered enthusiast looking for some tips and tricks, you have come to the right place.

Getting Started

Before you head out to your local garden centre in search of plants or seeds, there are a few things you need to do to get your container garden started properly. These 3 steps will make a huge difference to the success of your garden so if you put the extra time in now and you will reap the rewards later.

Consider the Area & Sunlight

First of all, choose the area you want your container garden to be in. Think about the sunlight the area receives so you know how much light your plants will get during the day and when in the day the sun will be on them. This information is key as different plants have different light requirements so you can now begin to think about which plants will best suit your environment and this will increase the likelihood of your garden thriving.

Choose the Containers

Choose the size and type of containers you would like to use. Generally, it is best to choose the biggest containers you are able to use as plants do better in larger containers due to there being more soil, more water and more nutrients. The type and shape of the container depends on what you are planning to grow; deep containers are good for growing tomatoes and potatoes whereas wider, shallower containers are good for growing things like lettuce.

The most popular containers are made of plastic or fiberglass, these are sturdy, lightweight and come in a vast range of sizes, shapes and colours. The containers should be thick and sturdy as these will handle the change in seasons better than the thinner options. The traditional choice for containers is terra cotta but these are heavier and are breakable so take care if you choose these. Also, you may want to put plastic liners in terra cotta pots to avoid moisture being absorbed into the clay from the soil. There are many container options available, if you are limited on space you may decide to use fabric containers.

Other container materials include concrete, polyurethane foam and wood. Concrete can be very heavy so is good if you are setting up your garden in a permanent location, polyurethane is chip resistant and can help insulate roots and if you choose wood, go for one that is rot-resistant such as cedar and make sure you avoid wood that has been treated with creosote as this is toxic to plants. It is best to avoid metal containers as they conduct heat which exposes the plant roots to temperature fluctuations.

Remember that you can get creative with your container choice, if you want your container garden to have a unique feel and a bit of personality why not upcycle some old boots, toys, desks or drawers? The ideas are countless because ultimately anything that can hold soil and has drainage can be used for the container garden so use your imagination.

We mention drainage as this is an extremely important aspect of the garden. Whatever containers you decide on need to have drainage holes. Drainage holes allow water to escape, prevents stagnant water from building up and keeps air circulating through the pot. Ensuring the excess water can drain also reduces the risk of root rot. If the containers you choose don’t have holes in them, or have too few holes, it is a good idea to drill some small holes in the bottom. If the pot you choose has large holes you may want to place a coffee filter, newspaper or something similar over the hole in order to prevent the soil from falling out while still allowing the water to drain.

Choose the Potting Soil

The soil you use is very important because it is what will hold the moisture and nutrients for your plants roots. There is a big difference between compost you use in the garden and compost you use in a container so choose a high quality potting soil to start your garden off on the right foot. Potting soil is formulated specifically for use in containers and should be lightweight and easy to break apart so look for this when picking a soil, avoid garden soil or topsoil as the density of these can cause root rot for plants in containers.

We cannot stress the importance of the soil you choose enough, soil is the foundation for growing your plants so high quality is essential. Some people decide to create container gardens because the soil in their traditional garden is low quality or not suitable. Unfortunately, for several reasons you can’t just take your container outside and fill it with garden soil. For the best results, we recommend choosing high quality, sterile potting soil.

Consider mixing some slow release fertiliser into your potting soil to give your container plants a nutritional boost. You will need to fertilise them often as a plant in a container does not have access to the natural nutrition found in gardens etc. so this nutrition needs to be added in the form of fertiliser but we will talk more about that later.

Seeds or Seedlings?

Now you’re almost ready to start planting you just need to decide whether you want to grow your plants from seeds or buy seedlings. Both have advantages and disadvantages so it is down to your own preference. To help you decide, we have listed the pros and cons of each below:

Seeds

A seed is a small, hard fertilised grain.

Pros

  • Cheaper than seedlings
  • There are a wider variety of options available
  • Great option for plants that germinate quickly such as beans

Cons

  • Riskier as seeds are more sensitive to environmental changes
  • Planting lots of seeds could result in needing to remove some seedlings once sprouted to avoid overcrowding
  • Seeds take longer to grow

Seedlings

A seedling is a young plant that has already sprouted from a seed.

Pros

  • Give you a head start
  • More resistant than seeds
  • Require less maintenance

Cons

  • Expensive
  • More restricted in available options
  • Some plants don’t do well when transplanted from one pot to another

It’s Time to Pick Your Plants

Once you have decided whether you want to grow the plants from seeds or buy seedlings, it’s time to decide which plants you would like in your container garden. Think about the climate, how much sunlight the area will get and the size of your containers and choose plants according to that. If you are designing your container garden for decoration choose a mixture of heights and colours, if you are planting an edible container garden choose herbs and vegetables you will consume.

Almost any herb, flower, shrub, vegetable and even small trees can be grown without issue in containers. When choosing your plants, have fun with the combinations. If you are not sure about different plants and their requirements, appearance etc. this information is available on plant tags and seed packets or you can talk to the staff at your local garden centre who will be very knowledgeable and happy to help. Below are some popular ideas:

Herbs and Vegetables

When it comes to vegetables, the amount you plant in one container depends on the size of the plant, for example one large container can hold several broccoli plants or just one tomato plant. Keep an eye out for dwarf forms of larger vegetables such as tomatoes or squash as these are better suited to containers and allow you to grow more. Whether you want to plant lettuces, parsley and chives for a wonderful salad combination or peppers, carrots, garlic and basil or maybe even edible flowers, the choice is yours and it’s all possible with container gardening.

Perennials

Another common option for a container garden, particularly one you want to enjoy for a long time is perennials and shrubs. These are hardy plants that look great and do well in containers, some options are daylilies, ferns, hostas, lavender, European wild ginger, sedges and dwarf conifers to name a few.

Summer Blooms

If you would like to create a container garden that looks great all summer, you have countless options available. Marigolds, geraniums, coleus, wax begonias and scarlet sage are all fantastic selections and will bloom all summer long.  You could even add some perennials to this for some foliage too.

Plants to Support Wildlife

Maybe you want to support and attract local wildlife with your container garden, in which case be sure to add some pollinator plants. Research your local wildlife and choose species that attract them. A good starting point may be native wildflower species.

Time to Plant

Now you have everything you need to plant your container garden, if your pots are large it is best to fill them with soil in the place you want them to stand so you don’t have to try moving them when they are full and heavy. Before you get started consider which plants you want in which pots, ensuring they have enough space and room to grow. Follow our easy planting steps below to get your container garden started:

1) Ensure your containers have holes in the bottom, if the holes are large use a coffee filter to prevent soil from falling through them.

2) Fill the containers up to 2 inches from the top with the selected potting soil

3) If using seedlings, carefully remove the plants from their pots.

4) Dig holes in the potting soil that are just bigger than the roots of the seedlings.

5) Place the seedlings into the holes and fill in with potting soil but do not press the soil down as you want to keep it aerated, the original soil from the seedling should now be about 1 inch below the surface.

6) Water the containers (water until you see water beginning to drain through the holes in the bottom).

If you have decided to plant seeds rather than seedlings you may want to first plant the seeds in a tray with seed compost and move them over to your containers once they have grown into seedlings. This gives you more control over the seeds and their environment.

Container Garden Maintenance

As with all aspects of gardening, there is no “one size fits all” so adapt these maintenance tips to suit your plants.

  • You should water your plants thoroughly but how often you do this will depend on multiple factors including the pot size, plant size and weather conditions. As a general rule, vegetables require watering more often than ornamental plants and the soil on all plants should never completely dry out.
  • Fertilise your plants often (every few weeks is a good starting point) as the soil in a container loses nutrients through the excess water that drains. Think of the fertilizer as a kind of food for your plants as it is necessary to keep them healthy and supports their growth.
  • Trim off dead flowers and leaves every few weeks to stimulate flower growth and decrease the occurrence of certain plant diseases.
  • Monitor your plants for insects and diseases, if you see signs of these you should identify the culprit and take the appropriate action. You can help prevent pests by cutting back dead vegetation, removing diseased plants and introducing desirable insects such as ladybugs that will help keep pests away. If you have noticed there are pests around, use a natural deterrent rather than harsh chemicals. Certain herbs such as basil can help to repel pests and garlic plays a role in repelling beetles and snails.

Why Invest in a Container Garden?

Gardening is once again increasing in popularity, particularly as more and more people want to grow their own food. There are a whole host of reasons you may be considering starting a container garden, whether it’s because you don’t have the outdoor space for traditional gardening or maybe you’re not sure gardening is for you and you just want to give it a go without undertaking any big tasks. Whatever your motivation, there are a wide range of advantages to creating container gardens from space to convenience, below we’ve listed some of the top advantages people experience with their container gardens.

  • Easy way to get started with growing your own plants
  • Freedom to grow any type of plant wherever you want
  • Offers a simple way to keep certain plant species separate, for example keeping mint which is very invasive away from your other herbs
  • Allows you to move the plants around as it suits you
  • Container gardens are visually pleasing and can instantly brighten up spaces
  • Container gardens experience reduced problems with weeds, pests and diseases
  • Planting and maintaining your container garden can be turned into a family activity
  • A container garden is very versatile

Top Tips for Ensuring Your Garden is a Success

Embarking on a new project can feel daunting but these tips will help everything go smoothly with your new garden.

  • Take care choosing the soil. The soil used in containers is more important as a container can magnify soil-related problems
  • Partially moisten the potting soil when you are filling the container initially as this will help when watering your plant in the future
  • Putting gravel in the bottom of the container does not increase drainage so don’t do this
  • The best time to water your plants is early morning
  • If you live in a hot climate, choose lighter coloured containers to help keep the roots cooler
  • Choose dwarf varieties if possible as this allows you to plant more in the same area
  • Fertiliser is important, make sure you give your container plants a small amount of fertiliser often
  • To help retain soil moisture, add a layer of mulch to the top of the potting soil
  • Keep in mind that plants in containers are more vulnerable to temperature changes

The Best Plants for Container Gardens

We’ve already mentioned that almost any plant will do well in a container garden but if this is your first gardening experience you may want to choose tried and tested plants. Of course, the best plants depend on your space and the climate. For hot, dry climates try lavender, geraniums or agave. If, on the other hand, your plants won’t be getting much sunlight try woodland plants, ornamental ivy or ferns. If you’re keen to grow food try leafy greens such as lettuce and spinach.

You can mix and match plants in a container but try to limit it to three plants to avoid it looking messy. Also make sure the plants that you put together in one pot have the same requirements in terms of light and soil. If the plants you put together have different needs they will not all thrive so choose carefully. When putting multiple plants in one container think of it like this:

1) Thriller. One plant is the focal point, it is larger and will be the centrepiece.

2) Filler. Add smaller plants around the centrepiece, these are the fillers that will make the container more attractive.

3) Spiller. Finally add plants around the edge that will spill over the sides, depending on your other plant choices some options could be strawberries, petunias or ornamental sweet potato.

If you’re planting food; tomatoes are a good centrepiece option with herbs or small veggies as fillers and squash or pumpkin as the spillers.

Handling Plant Loss

First of all, you will lose some plants and that is completely normal so don’t become disheartened. This is simply a part of gardening. If you are beginning to notice your plant looking a little worse for wear then you can either cut it back and hope for healthy regrowth or you can pull out the plant and replace it with another. What you choose to do will depend on the condition of the plant. Generally, it takes a few weeks for a plant to come back healthy and happy after being cut back so you could try this first to see what happens. If you want to, you could remove the plant and place it in another pot so you can care for it separately in the hope it rebounds.

If you think your plant is dying and it is showing signs of disease, immediately remove it from the container and either quarantine it or dispose of it.

What Are You Waiting For? Start Container Gardening Today

You now have all the information you need to create a beautiful, thriving container garden. It doesn’t matter how much or how little space you have, a container garden is an attractive alternative to traditional gardening that can bring versatility, colour and even delicious home-grown food. You can start creating your container garden right away and maintenance of your plants is easy. Most of all, be sure to enjoy the experience of creating a garden and don’t forget to appreciate the sights and smells when your plants bloom.

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Benefits & Allowances Guide 2019

In the UK, there are millions of pounds’ worth of benefits that go unclaimed each year, this is partially due to a lack of awareness of what is available. To help ensure you are receiving what you are entitled to, here is a guide of the most common benefits available. The benefits system is evolving and changing but don’t let this deter you from claiming the support you are eligible for.

Job Seeker’s Allowance (JSA)

JSA is available for those who are not currently employed full time but are capable and actively searching for work. There are three types of Job Seeker’s Allowance available: ‘New style’, Income-based and Contribution-based.

Contribution-based and Income-based JSA are only available to people who currently get the severe disability premium (SDP) or have got the SDP in the last month and are still eligible for it.

To receive ‘New style’ or Contribution-based JSA, you will need to have worked as an employee and paid Class 1 National Insurance contributions in the last 2 – 3 years. If you were self-employed and paid Class 2 National Insurance contributions you will not be eligible.

Your employment in the last 2-3 years will not affect your eligibility for the Income-based JSA. However, you must have less than £16,000 in savings to claim.

In addition to the above factors, you will need to:

  • Be aged 18+ but under State Pension age
  • Not be in full-time education
  • Be available to work
  • Not be working full-time at the moment (working an average of less than 16 hours per week)
  • Live in England, Scotland or Wales
  • Have the right to work within the UK

Job Seeker’s Allowance can be claimed online or by contacting Jobcentre Plus. You will be required to attend an interview at your local Jobcentre Plus office in order to receive JSA.

In order to continue receiving payments you will need to show that you are looking for work, ‘new style’ JSA can be claimed for up to 182 days.

Payments are made every 2 weeks and the amount you receive depends on factors such as your age, income and savings. Claiming JSA counts as income when applying for other benefits which could impact your eligibility and entitlements.

Contribution-based JSA
Age Amount (weekly)
Up to 24 £57.90
25+ £73.10
Couple (both ages 18+) £114.85

Universal Credit (UC)

This is a single monthly benefit that offers financial support to working age people who are on a low-income or are out of work and have less than £16,000 in savings. Universal Credit helps to cover basic living expenses and housing costs and has been slowly replacing Housing Benefit, Income Support, Income-based JSA, Working Tax Credit and Child Tax Credit. Existing benefit claimants will be switched to UC between July 2019 and March 2022.

Under special circumstances you can apply for UC if you are training or studying full-time or if you are aged 16 – 17. You cannot claim UC if you receive the severe disability premium (or have received this within the last month).

The amount you receive will depend on your income and circumstances. It will take at least five weeks for you to receive your first payment. Below is the standard allowance depending on your age and whether you are claiming as a single or couple:

Universal Credit Standard Monthly Allowance
Single aged under 25 £251.77
Single 25+ £317.82
In a couple and both of you are under 25 £395.20
In a couple and either of you are 25 or over £498.89

There are extras that may be added to this standard amount, including:

  • If you have children
  • If you need help with childcare costs
  • If you need help with housing costs
  • If you have a limited capability for work
  • If you are a carer

For example, if you have children you can receive an additional £277.08 a month for your first child (if born before 6 April 2017) and £231.67 (if born after) and £231.67 for your second child and any other eligible children. If you have a disability or health condition you may receive an additional £336.20 a month or if you care for a severely disabled person for at least 35 hours per week you could receive £160.20 extra a month. You could also qualify for additional housing cost support (which goes towards covering rent and service charges) and depending on your age and circumstances, you may be eligible for other financial support too.

You can receive Universal Credit if you are working but the amount you receive will depend on your earnings. As your income increases, your UC payments will decrease until you are earning enough to no longer claim UC.

Housing Benefits

Housing Benefit helps people with low income pay their rent, it can be claimed if you are responsible for paying the rent for a property and this includes if you rent a room in a hostel, are a boarder or share a flat or house. You cannot claim it if you rent from the Crown or are aged 16-17 and have been in care.

If you are receiving the severe disability premium (SDP), or have recently stopped getting SDP, are of State Pension age, live in temporary accommodation or live in sheltered or supported housing with special facilities you can make a Housing Benefit claim. If none of these apply to you, you will need to apply for Universal Credit instead.

The amount of Housing Benefit you will receive depends on your personal circumstances and your income level. It will also depend on whether you rent privately or from the council and can be impacted by the number of people living in the house, whether you have one or more spare bedrooms and what is considered reasonable rent for your local area.

The amount is then paid directly to your rent account if you are a council tenant or into your bank if you are renting privately. If your Housing Benefit does not cover your rent you may be eligible for a Discretionary Housing Payment which is extra help from the council.

Tax Credits

This means-tested benefit provides additional support to those who are on a low income (Working Tax Credits) or those who are responsible for children (Child Tax Credits). You can claim one or both of these Tax Credits depending on your circumstances. It is worth pointing out that Tax Credits are being replaced by Universal Credit for most people so unless you get the severe disability premium you cannot make a new claim for Tax Credits.

Tax credits are paid weekly or monthly throughout the tax year and will be paid directly into your bank account, the amount you receive is dependent on your income.

Working Tax Credit (WTC)

You need to work a certain number of hours per week to qualify for WTC:

  • If you are between 25 – 59 you need to be working a minimum of 30 hours per week
  • If you are 60+, disabled or single with 1 or more children you need to be working a minimum of 16 hours per week
  • If you are a couple with 1 or more children, you need to be working a minimum of 24 hours between you to be eligible (with one of you working at least 16 hours)
Working Tax Credit 2018/2019 Rates
Basic £1,960 a year
Couples & Lone Parents £2,010 a year
30 Hours of Work a week £810 a year
Disability £3,090 a year
Severe Disability £1,330 a year
You pay for approved childcare £122.50 (1 child) or £210 (2 or more children) weekly

Child Tax Credit (CTC)

Child Tax Credit assists with the costs of raising a child for people who are on a low income. How much you receive depends on the number of children you have and whether you are making a new claim or already claiming CTC.

Child Tax Credit 2019/2020 Tax Year
The Family Element £545 a year
The Child Element £2,780 a year
For each disabled child £3,355 a year (on top of the child element)
For each severely disabled child £1,360 a year (on top of the child element and the disabled child element)

 Making a New Claim

If you are making a new claim, how much you receive depends on the birth date of your child or children. If they were born before 6 April 2017 you may be able to get the child element for each child as well as the family element. If one or more were born on or after 6 April you could get the child element for up to 2 months and you will only get the family element if at least one of your children was born before 6 April 2017.

If You Have an Existing Claim

If your claim was started prior to 6 April 2017 you will get the family element as well as, for each child born before April 6th 2017, the child element. However, if your claim began on or before this date, you will be able to receive the child element for two children and you will receive the family element if one of your children was born before April 6th 2017. If all of your children were born prior to this date you are eligible to receive the family element as well as the child element for each of your children.

Employment and Support Allowance (ESA)

This benefit is available for people who have limited capability to work due to a disability or illness and are not receiving Statuary Sick Pay. There are three types of ESA; ‘New style’, contribution-based and income-based:

  • New style ESA requires that you’ve been an employee or self-employed and paid National Insurance contributions in the last 2 – 3 years.
  • Contribution-based ESA can be applied for if you get the severe disability premium (or have within the last month) and have a disability or illness that has an impact on your ability to work. You will also need to have been an employee or self-employed and paid National Insurance contribution is the last 2-3 years.
  • Income-based ESA can be applied for if you get the severe disability premium (or have within the last month) and have an illness or disability that affects your ability to work. Your National Insurance contributions do not affect your eligibility for this type of ESA.

To receive ESA, you must be of working age and after 13 weeks you will be placed into one of two groups; work-related activity group or a support group. The amount of ESA you get depends on your circumstances, the type of ESA you are eligible for and your assessment process.

ESA Financial Support
Assessment Rate if you’re aged under 25 £57.90 a week for 13 weeks
Assessment Rate if you’re 25+ £73.10 a week for 13 weeks
Work-related group £73.10 a week
Support group £111.65 a week

The work-related activity group means regularly attending interviews with an advisor who can assist with job goals, skill improvement and more.

The support group does not involve interviews; however, you are able to talk to an advisor if you would like. The support group is usually for people who have a disability or an illness that has a severe impact on what the person is able to do.

You are not eligible for ESA if you are over State Pension age, getting Statutory Sick Pay or Statutory Maternity Pay or are getting Jobseekers Allowance. You can apply for this benefit if you are employed, self-employed, unemployed or a student.

Personal Independence Payment (PIP)

Personal Independence Payment is replacing the Disability Living Allowance (DLA) and provides assistance with the extra costs if you have a disability or long-term ill-health. DLA remains available for people who are under 16 or were born on or before 8 April 1948 and already have a DLA claim, aside from this you should claim PIP instead.

The amount you can receive ranges from £23.20 – £148.85 a week depending on how your condition affects you. A health professional will carry out an assessment in order to determine the level of help you receive and this will be regularly reviewed to ensure you are receiving the right support.

To be eligible for PIP you need to be 16 or older but not yet State Pension age and you must have a health condition or disability where you have experienced difficulties with getting around or daily living (such as preparing or eating food, washing, bathing, dressing etc.) for 3 months and expect this to continue for at least 9 months.

PIP is paid every 4 weeks and is tax free. It is separated into 2 parts; Daily Living and Mobility. You may get one or both of these depending on how your condition affects you. The daily living part offers a weekly rate of either £58.70 or £87.65 and the mobility part offers a weekly rate of either £23.20 or £61.20.

You may also be eligible for other help such as Carer’s Allowance or help with housing costs, if you work you may be able to get the disability element of the Working Tax Credit we discussed above.

Support for Mortgage Interest (SMI)

This is assistance offered to homeowners to help towards interest payments on your mortgage or loans you’ve taken to repair or improve your home. You will need to be receiving Universal Credit, Income Support, income-based JSA, income-related ESA or Pension Credit to be eligible. This is a loan that needs to be repaid with interest when you sell your home. This support cannot help you pay the amount you borrowed (only the interest component), anything towards insurance policies or missed mortgage payments.

SMI can help you pay the interest on up to £200,000 of your mortgage or loan (or £100,000 if you are getting Pension Credit or another qualifying benefit you started getting before January 2009). 2.61% is the interest rate that is currently used when calculating the amount of SMI you’ll receive.

SMI is usually paid directly to your lender and you’ll need to pay the money back with interest, the current interest rate is 1.5% but this can change.

Council Tax Reduction

Council Tax Reduction can be applied for through your local council and means your bill will be discounted if you are eligible. This is generally available to people who are on a low income or claim benefits and you could see a bill reduction of up to 100%.

You are able to apply for Council Tax Reduction whether you are working or unemployed, living in your own home or renting. The reduction you receive depends on where you live, your circumstances, your household income and who else lives with you (your children or other adults).

Other Common Benefits

We have covered the most common benefits in this guide but this is not an extensive list of the available benefits within the UK, other common benefits include:

  • Attendance Allowance – for people who are 65+ who are physically or mentally disabled and require supervision or assistance with their personal care needs or to ensure their safety.
  • Carer’s Allowance – for people who provide 35+ hours of care a week to someone who has a disability or illness.
  • Pension Credit – for people who have reached Pension Credit age who are on low income.
  • Child Benefit – for people who have one or more children aged 16 or under (or 20 and under if in approved education or training).

There are a large range of benefits available, the government website provides all of the up to date information you need regarding conditions, eligibility and how to apply for each benefit. Don’t miss out on the benefits you deserve and remember there are more available, we have only listed the most significant benefits in this guide.

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LED Bulbs UK Cost Guide: Upgrading from Halogen

In recent times, LED (light emitting diode) bulbs have proven themselves to be the future of lighting as a result of their energy efficiency, durability and impressive long lifespans. It won’t be long before LED bulbs overtake other lighting choices in popularity as more and more people are swayed by their numerous benefits and cost-saving potential. In fact, as part of a progressive action, on 1 September 2018 the final phase of the European Union ban on the sale of halogen light bulbs came into effect. The ban is due to the inefficiency of halogen bulbs and comes after incandescent light bulbs were banned back in 2009. As these less efficient bulbs are pushed aside, it makes room for more advanced, greener solutions such as LEDs.

What Makes LED Bulbs Different?

The main difference between LED technology and traditional incandescent lightbulbs is the way they actually produce light; incandescent bulbs use a wire filament to pass electricity while LEDs use a semi-conductor. Incandescent bulbs produce 90% of their energy as heat rather than light which is why these bulbs are often hot to touch and can be a fire hazard.

This is also different from energy-saving bulbs which use mercury vapour to create UV light that is absorbed by a phosphor coating causing it to glow. Mercury is a toxic component and there is the potential for exposure if the bulb breaks or is incorrectly disposed of.

Unlike other options that need time to ‘warm up’, LEDs are instantly bright when you switch them on and they have been shown to work well in low temperatures too.

Advantages of Choosing LED Bulbs

There are many benefits to switching to LED light bulbs, whether you’re considering the switch for your home or business we’ve covered the main advantages you can expect below:

Energy Efficiency

Using up to 90% less energy than incandescent bulbs and 60% less energy than compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) bulbs, LEDs are the most energy-efficient bulbs available. Therefore, using LEDs will help to considerably reduce your energy bills and lower your carbon footprint while not compromising on brightness. Switching to LEDs is a great way for businesses to meet energy quotas and government energy efficiency incentives.

Long-Lasting

With an impressive average lifespan of 15 years (25,000 – 50,000 hours) LEDs offer excellent value for money as other bulb types tend to last a fraction of the time, for example an incandescent bulbs typical lifespan of 1,000 – 2,000 hours. LED bulbs may be slightly pricier to initially buy but with other options you will be regularly purchasing replacement bulbs as well as paying more on your energy bills. It is also worth noting that LED bulbs do not burn out or suddenly stop working, instead they will experience lumen depreciation meaning they will very slowly get dimmer over time.

How Much Do LED Bulbs Cost?

We mentioned that LEDs are good value for money, but how much could they save you? Lighting accounts for a significant portion (15%) of a typical household electricity bill (according to The Energy Saving Trust) so by switching your bulbs to a more energy efficient alternative you stand to make considerable savings.

Below is a comparison of the total cost of two different bulbs of the same brightness being used for the same number of hours –

LED Bulb Halogen Bulb
Watts 9 43
Lumens 800 800
Estimated Cost Per Bulb £7 £1
Amount of Energy (kWh) consumed over 10,000 hours 90kWh 430kWh
Number of Bulbs Needed for 10,000 Hours Use 1 5
Cost of Electricity (@ £0.12 p/kWh) £10.80 £51.60
Total Spent £17.80 £56.60
Savings Made £38.80 –

As you can see, using an LED bulb can save you money in the long run, especially considering the above calculations are for switching only 1 bulb in your home or office. Within 1 year of 3 hours per day of usage your LED bulb would have paid for itself in savings. A fair estimate is a £35 annual saving on your electricity bill if you switch all of the bulbs in your home to LEDs.

Variety of Options

LEDs offer many colour options and even offer different shades of white light so you can decide on the exact lighting you’d like in your home and work spaces. This colour temperature is measured in Kelvins so if you want a very warm white you should choose a bulb with under 2700K, a warm white is between 2700 – 3200K, daylight is between 4000-5000K and cool white is between 5500 – 6500K. A good guide is to go for warmer bulbs for bedrooms and sitting rooms and daylight or cooler bulbs for kitchens, bathrooms and offices.

Safer Alternative

LEDs are the safest form of lighting as they give off little to no heat, do not contain fragile parts or glass enclosures and do not contain toxic substances such as mercury. They are unlikely to break or shatter and are safe to handle. Not only this, LEDs do not flicker so eye strain and headaches are much less likely to occur. These bulbs are very strong, more durable and are safe to use in all areas of a home.

Another benefit is that LEDs do not produce infra-red or ultraviolet radiation meaning they can be used to light precious artefacts and paintings without causing any damage or fading.

Maintenance Costs

Maintenance, for example replacing light bulbs, can be a particularly significant cost especially for commercial premises. By switching to LEDs, this instantly eliminates the need to regularly replace the bulbs and considerably cuts maintenance costs as well as reduces energy bills.

Wave Goodbye to Watts

Watts used to be used when shopping for a suitable light bulb as generally higher wattage would mean a brighter bulb, however watts is the amount of energy consumed rather than the brightness of the light. As LEDs don’t use a lot of energy, they will have low watts but that does not mean they are not bright. Lumens are used to measure how much light is actually given out so keep an eye on the lumens to get an accurate measure of a bulbs brightness. Below is a table of the general rule of thumb when it comes to the relationship between watts and lumens depending on the bulb type.

 

General Rule of Thumb
Bulb Type Watts Lumens
Halogen 18W 220+
  28W 400+
  42W 700+
  53W 900+
  70W 1300+
 
CFL 6W 220+
  9W 400+
  12W 700+
  15W 900+
  20W 1300+
 
LED 4W 220+
6W 400+
10W 700+
13W 900+
20W 1300+

As you can see, LED bulbs are very energy efficient as they use less watts while remaining bright. This means you will no longer be wasting energy to produce light and, as an example, you can replace your 60W energy saving bulb with a 9W LED bulb to produce the same number of lumens. For incandescent bulbs 1W generally produces 40 – 50 lumens whereas with an LED bulb 1W will produce 80-100 lumens.

Types of LED Bulb Fittings

It used to be a struggle to find LED bulbs with the same fittings as traditional bulbs, thankfully this is no longer the case. There are a variety of fittings to suit existing light fixtures so whatever fitting you are looking for, you’ll find an LED version that can be used as a direct replacement.

Some of the most frequently used fittings that are available as LEDs include:

  • E27, also known as Edison Screw
  • E14, also known as Small Edison Screw
  • B22 also known as Bayonet
  • B15 also known as Small Bayonet
  • R50 also known as Reflector Bulbs
  • PAR38 which is very bright and often used for security and commercial lighting
  • GU10 spotlight
  • MR16 spotlight

You can also get smart LED bulbs which can be managed remotely from your mobile device or through voice control. Smart bulbs give you a convenient way of controlling the lights within your home no matter where you are and are a helpful option for people with mobility issues. Another bonus is the ability to save energy by conveniently ensuring the lights are off when no one is in the house.

LED options have grown immensely in recent years and it’s not just a range of fittings that are available, there are also a range of shapes and sizes available so you can choose a style that matches your home or office.

Advice When Choosing Bulbs

When you are choosing new bulbs for your home or workplace, consider the following factors to ensure you select the best suited bulb for your needs:

  • Bulb fitting – as you saw from our list above, there are many different types of light fittings. Sometimes the easiest thing to do is take the old bulb to the shop with you to ensure you get the same fitting or a quick online search can help you identify the fitting type you need too.
  • Bulb life – some people are put off by the fact that LEDs are more expensive to buy, but consider the bulb life when making your choice.
  • Brightness – lumens will tell you how bright the bulb is, use the comparison table above to help with this if you aren’t sure. The higher the lumens the brighter the bulb is going to be.
  • Energy saving potential – consider if the new bulb will help you to save energy and therefore save money on your energy bills.
  • Colour of output – use the kelvin scale as a guide to the colour of the bulb to help you choose a bulb that will suit the atmosphere you are trying to create.
  • Dimmable or not – if you would like to dim your new bulb, make sure it states that it is dimmable as not all bulbs have this capability.

Dimmer Switches

If you want to be able to set the mood with dimmed lighting, this is possible with LED bulbs. However, to be able to dim your new dimmable LED lights, you may need to upgrade your dimmer switch to one that is capable of recognising low electrical loads. You’ll likely need to upgrade your existing dimmer switch because many of the switches that are used for other bulb types have a minimum wattage load of around 60W which is considerably higher than the wattage of LEDs.

Colour Rendering Index (CRI)

This is a number that rates how accurately the light reproduces natural colours. Generally, CRI isn’t of much importance when you are looking for a bulb for everyday use but if you are looking for bulbs to suit retail displays, galleries or photographic displays the CRI is very important. The number ranges from 1-100 with the higher the number the better the colour rendering. Generally, 80 is considered acceptable and a CRI of over 90 is excellent.

Lighting for Business

When choosing commercial lighting the main focus tends to be cost effectiveness, durability, light output and of course aesthetics. The wide range of LED products that are available means it is getting easier to find lighting solutions to suit your requirements.

Retail

The right lighting is critical in retail environments, the advantages of using LED bulbs includes the lack of glare and the reliability of the bulbs. Customers want to be able to see the products properly in good lighting that won’t distort the colour and LEDs ensure excellent colour rendering as well as a high quality of light.

It is also likely that the lighting in retail environments will be on for long periods of time so the bulbs need to be able to handle this workload without burning out or becoming hot and potentially dangerous. These requirements point towards LEDs and when you combine this with their long life and cost efficiency it seems that LEDs truly are the future of retail lighting.

Commercial

Retail is just one aspect of commercial lighting, whether you run a restaurant and are looking for ambient lighting that can set the mood or operate a warehouse or office and need glare-free, reliable lights, LEDs are worth looking into. They meet Health & Safety requirements and can help get your business closer to your carbon neutral goals. Whatever the commercial environment, using LEDs can save you money while also creating the atmosphere you are looking for.

Are LEDs Right for Me?

Hopefully this guide has helped you to discover more about LED bulbs and why they are increasing in popularity. It is likely that making the switch to using LEDs will be beneficial to you, whether you are looking at it from a financial, energy efficiency or durability standpoint. One of the important things when buying new bulbs is understanding the brightness and colour to make sure they will create the look and ambience you want, if you aren’t sure, try one bulb and see how it looks before replacing the rest.

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Making The Home Disability Friendly

Many houses are not disability-friendly but with some relatively easy, low-cost adjustments you can transform your house into a home that suits the needs and requirements of everyone. Creating a handicap accessible home helps to give more independence, comfort and dignity to our loved ones while also enhancing safety and reducing the risk of accidents. When we talk about adapting a home to accommodate disabilities, the immediate thought is often installing a ramp but there are many other adaptations that can be made, from switching the type of door handles used to lowering kitchen countertops. Use our guide to discover a range of cost-effective home modifications that will help you create a disability-friendly home.

Widening Doorways

For a doorway to be wheelchair accessible it needs to be at least 32 inches wide. If there are sharp turns immediately before or after the doorway, the space will need to be wider to allow the required room to manoeuvre. If your doorway is a couple of inches too small, you may be able to make some inexpensive adjustments to widen it, for example installing offset hinges can add extra clearance by allowing the door to open clear of the doorway and removing the trim of the door can also improve the width and clearance.

Keep in mind whether the door is able to fully open or whether it blocks the passage in some way as this can impact the amount of room the person in the wheelchair has to move. If the suggested adjustments will not provide enough room, your doorway will need to be expanded (something that is more likely in older properties).

It is also important to remove doorsteps (or install a ramp – we will look at this is more detail later) and ensure there are no uneven parts of the flooring so a wheelchair or someone with mobility issues is able to get in and out unobstructed. Also consider the door thresholds as some raised thresholds take considerable effort for a wheelchair user to get over. Simply reducing the height of the threshold or replacing them with cushioned thresholds will resolve this problem.

The door handles should be lever-style and easy to operate as doorknobs are more challenging to reach and use, as well as this the door should be no heavier to open than 5lbs. The door handles should also be lowered so they can be reached by wheelchair users. Finally, if you often use a peephole for security to check who is outside, fitting a second, lower peephole that is at eye-level for a wheelchair user is a good idea too.

Dealing with Stairways

If you have stairs leading up to your home, a ramp is the most popular way to rectify this. There are different options available depending on whether you want a permanent structure or something that can be easily fitted and removed when necessary.

You may also decide to install a platform lift rather than a ramp, however this is an expensive solution but may be better suited if your home is on a steep incline as a ramp gradient should not be steeper than 1:12.

For stairs inside the home a stair lift or wheelchair lift can provide upstairs access. These can be costly depending on the make and model and depending on the size and layout of your home, you may find alternative options by remodelling your home so there is a bathroom and bedroom on ground level rather than the first floor.

Adapting the Bathroom

While the bathroom is one of the most important rooms for an individual’s personal hygiene, an unmodified bathroom can be a particular hazard for people who have mobility issues. Improving the safety of a bathroom can be as simple as installing grab bars (at sitting and standing height) to provide additional support and minimise the risk of someone losing their balance or falling. Grab bars should be fitted around the toilet, bath and shower, they can be temporary or permanent fixtures and can also be fitted on hinges to fold away if necessary. A shower seat (these can be fixed or portable) may also be needed for additional support.

You may need to install an accessible shower with:

  • Low or no threshold
  • Non-slip floors
  • Enough space (at least 60 inches in width) to allow a wheelchair to turn
  • Handheld shower head.

Also consider the location of personal items and grab bars to enhance convenience when showering.

To make sure there is enough space in the bathroom, ensure the door opens outwards rather than into the bathroom. An inwards opening door can make manoeuvring, opening and closing the door very difficult. There needs to be free space of at least 60 inches for turning and space of at least 47 inches in front of the toilet. As well as space in front, the toilet should also have space to the side and the height of the toilet needs to be 17 inches to allow transfers from the wheelchair.

Lever type mixer taps are a good switch to make as these are easier to use than twist taps and provide the user with more control over the water pressure and temperature. Installing a lower wash basin with a shallow fronted bowl is also an important adjustment to make within the bathroom to suit wheelchair users.

Kitchen Adjustments

Adapting a kitchen is essential for safety and independence, when it comes to kitchens there tends to be a lot going on in a relatively small space so a refit or redesign may be required to ensure there is enough space and the surfaces and utilities are within easy reach. When designing the kitchen consider the frequency of use and the current and future needs of all members of the household.

Quick Kitchen Adaptations

For reduced grip; switching the door, cabinet and drawer handles as well as the type of taps can help make things easier. For cabinets and drawers, D handles are easier to grab and hold. Door handles and taps should be lever style. You may also want to create your kitchen so that it is easy to slide heavy items from counter to hob and vice versa rather than the user needing to try to lift them.

For wheelchair users; if you have enough manoeuvring space (36 inch clearance), the main focus will be adapting the height of the countertops. The countertops should have rounded edges and will need to be between 28-34 inches high to make them wheelchair friendly. You may decide to only lower part of the countertop if multiple people will be using the kitchen, another solution in a shared kitchen is to use adjustable rise and fall countertops that can be adjusted to suit the person using the kitchen at that moment. As well as the height of the countertop, there must also be leg space underneath which may mean removing lower cabinets. If the countertops have restricted wheelchair access, a pull-out board should be made available as an accessible work surface instead.

Cabinets

You may need to reduce the height of the higher cabinets and remove some lower cabinets in order to make sure everything is within reach and disability-friendly. Height adjustable cupboards and drawers are also an option and can make it easier to reach items when needed while still having worktop space to enjoy. For added convenience, make sure that the most easily accessible cabinets contain the most used items.

Sink Height

The kitchen sink may also need to be lowered and will need leg space underneath for wheelchair users. Ensure there is no risk of burns to knees and legs under the sink by using heat insulation. The tap should be a mixer tap with clear hot and cold indications to benefit visually impaired people.

Appliances

Your appliances should be at a height of up to 31 inches to ensure they can be easily used by someone who is in a wheelchair. The controls for the stove need to be at the front so that the person cooking does not need to reach across the stove top to turn it on or off. Ideally, the stove should have work surface on one or both sides as this will act as a support surface for hot and heavy pans. The stove should clearly indicate if the rings are hot and if an extractor fan is fitted the controls should be accessible for all. The mid-point of the oven should be at the same height as the worktops for ease of use. Finally, all display panels and markings on all appliances need to be clear and easy to understand and the controls need to be easy to manipulate and use.

Interior Adaptations

There are a few additional interior adaptations that are not always remembered, these are often small, low-cost changes that can make a big difference.

  • Lights – glare from lighting is a significant aspect that is often overlooked. For example, people in wheelchairs may experience glare from under cabinet lights that you may not think twice about. It is quick and easy to solve problems with glare – you can lower the position of the lights, use reduced glare bulbs or simply use alternative lighting.
  • Light switches and controls – all switches and controls should be positioned at least 14 inches away from room corners, should be positioned consistently in relation to doors (making them logical and easy to locate) and should be at a height that is easy to reach. Electrical sockets should be positioned at around 35 inches above the floor.
  • Furniture – the furniture you choose should be sturdy and stable so it can be used as support if necessary. Avoid furniture that is fragile or has sharp edges and choose tables that can be used by everyone (coffee tables are often too low which limits their usefulness for wheelchair users). Although soft chairs and sofas are comfortable, they can be very difficult to get up from – this may make firmness a requirement when it comes to furniture.
  • Flooring – slip resistant flooring is a must. Flooring should also contract in colour to the walls and it is best to avoid bold patterns and shiny surfaces as these can cause glare and reflections which can cause confusion to people who are visually impaired. Remove thick carpets and rugs as these make moving difficult for those in wheelchairs or using walking aids.
  • Windows – the opening and closing mechanism of windows should be accessible from a seated position. If this is not an option, there should be available controls to an extractor fan or some form of ventilation.

Financial Assistance

There are often grants, equipment loans and construction assistance available when it comes to adjusting your home so be sure to check with the local council or organisations in your area to see what assistance you may be eligible for. This assistance can make a huge difference as some home adaptations can be large, costly projects.

  • If you are a home owner you can usually get assistance from the local authority, they will ask for an Assessment of Need (which is usually performed by an Occupational Therapist who confirms that the adaptations are essential) and will provide the relevant assistance following this assessment.
  • If you live in a property that is owned by the local authority they will decide what adaptations are provided on a case by case basis (decisions are made relating to the level of need, risk to health and the individual’s wellbeing and independence). Limited budgets could delay adaptations and at times, adaptations are not possible due to the space or layout of the home which could result in other solutions being suggested, for example moving to another property.
  • If you are a private tenant and you want to make adaptations you will need to have an assessment from the local authority and gain permission from your landlord for the adaptations. It is important to clarify whether or not you will return the property to its original state when you leave. If your landlord says no (although they cannot unreasonably refuse to give their consent) they must tell you in writing why they have said no.

Summary of Low-Cost Adjustments

While some of the adjustments we have mentioned are expensive and may take time to plan and organise, there are a few things you can do that are quick to implement, cost-effective and make a considerable difference to the day-to-day life of a person who is living with a disability. These adjustments include:

  • Widen doorways by using offset hinges and removing the door trim
  • Invest in a low-cost threshold ramp
  • Install grab bars – these are particularly useful in the bathroom
  • Switch door knobs to lever type handles
  • Lower the door handles and light switches
  • Lower fittings or replace them with remote control units e.g. thermostats
  • Put single-lever taps in the kitchen and bathrooms for easy on-off, flow control and temperature control
  • Switch cabinet handles to D handles
  • Ensure lights are low-glare
  • Remove thick carpets and rugs & ensure flooring is slip resistant
  • Rearrange your kitchen and furniture for easier movement and access

Making your home disability-friendly is becoming easier and nowadays you don’t need to sacrifice design for practicality. There are many options available so you can choose what’s right for your style and space allowing you to create a beautiful home that is accessible for all. Remember that you may be eligible for some form of assistance so be sure to get in contact with your local council to find out more. Some adjustments will require patience and planning but the end result of independence, safety and comfort will be worth it.

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Common Boiler Problems & How To Fix Them

Whether you’ve recently installed a new combi boiler, just wanting to ensure that your older one is in the best working order and well maintained, or if you have suffered with boiler problems in the past, you need to know:

  • What the correct pressure should be
  • Why it might be too low or too high
  • What you can do to correct the pressure levels

As a rule of thumb, the boiler pressure should be in between 1 and 2 bar. Of course, while this would be a standard guideline, you should always check the manual for your specific model, or check with the manufacturer or heating engineer, to be certain.

Water Pressure v Boiler Pressure

One thing to note, and to avoid confusion, is that boiler pressure and water pressure are not the same thing.

Whereas water pressure refers to the bar that water runs through your taps, the pressure of your boiler is referring to the bar that hot water is running through your sealed central heating system.

Why Boiler Pressure is Important

The pressure of the boiler is essential for ensuring that it works properly, safely and efficiently, keeping your home warm, your hot water supply consistent and your energy bills low.

The majority of central heating systems used in the UK are sealed, meaning they have no vents in place to deal with the water’s expansion and contraction as it fluctuates from hot to cold. Instead, the systems rely on pressurisation to accommodate the changes, meaning the correct pressure level is essential for the system to work correctly.

Depending on the make and age of your combi boiler, it’s quite possible that it will have an in-built sensor that will cause it to switch off if it detects that the pressure is too low. Which can be a particular nuisance as it will mean your home is going to be without hot water.

How to Check the Bar

You need to find the pressure gauge to check if you have the correct bar on your boiler.

On older boilers, the gauge will generally have a needle and will quite likely have a colour code system with green denoting the ‘safe’ zone, red the ‘danger’ zone.

If all is well and the bar is correct, then the needle will most likely be somewhere between 1 and 2 bar. Anything either side of this and you are very likely to have a problem.

You may find that you pressure gauge has two needles, one a fixed marker pointing the bar that it should be running at, the other pointing to the bar that it’s actually running at. A well pressured boiler should see both needles in alignment.

Newer boilers are likely to have a digitised control panel, with the pressure displayed on an LCD screen.

Low Pressure in Your Combi Boiler Equals No Heating

If the pressure of the boiler drops too low (below 1 on the gauge), then the likelihood is that the boiler will recognise it and cut out.

If it doesn’t cut out, it will still, nevertheless, fail to have the capacity to let the hot water to adequately circulate around your home.

Either way, your system is not going to be working. Which means inadequate supply of hot water coming from the tap, and not enough pressure to supply your home with central heating.

Which can be a particularly inconvenient problem for your boiler and for you; especially during the colder winter months.

Dealing with the Problem

Low pressure means that the system needs to be topped up. Before doing so, you should first switch off the system and allow time for it to cool down.

Topping up the pressure is, in most cases, achieved by using the filling link or loop.

Filling links will vary from boiler type, age and brand. However, you’ll find that conform to one of three general varieties.

  • External Link – A filling loop located on the outside of the unit (hence the external) which you will usually find on the bottom or side.
  • Keyed Filling Link – Located (in most cases) inside the unit and operated by a specific key, which is supplied with the boiler.
  • Keyless Filling Link – A lever at the bottom of the unit is used to operate this.

Whichever variety you have, once you’ve found the valve, start to turn or twist it. Make sure you’re in a position to keep watch of the gauge. As you turn you should hear the water starting to flow as the system starts to correct itself and the pressure will start to rise.

When you can see the needle point between 1 and 2, you know the system has been successfully topped up and you can stop turning the valve.

Your system should again be in good working order and something that you would typically only need to do once or twice a year maximum. If you find that you need to do this more frequently, then this suggests a more serious fault or leak in your water supply.

Obviously, the exact task for doing this will depend on the make and type of boiler that you have.

So, you need to refer the manufacturers manual, or call in an expert heating engineer.

What About When Your Boiler Has High Pressure?

It’s not just low pressure that’s a cause for concern with your boiler.

High boiler pressure, anything over 2 bar, and especially if it’s running around 3 or higher, can be a cause for real concern. It’s a condition with, if not addressed, be a cause of serious malfunction of the system, which could potentially lead to costly and potentially dangerous damage at home.

You can often get visual evidence of a boiler with pressure that’s too high, if you happen to notice leaking dripping from in and around the pressure valve.

If this leaking has been going on for some time, you might find that the pipework has suffered from corrosion. And, failure to deal with the problem is likely to require the replacement of the entire boiler.

How To Solve This

When you have a high pressure problem (having a bar in excess of 2) then you need to release this pressure.

This can be achieved by bleeding one or more of the radiators located throughout your home.

As with the low pressure resolution, you need to turn the system off first, and let it cool, then follow this simple procedure.

  • Place a bowl under the top valve of the radiator to catch any water that leaks out
  • If you have a radiator key in the house, take it and put it into the valve. If you don’t have a key, a flathead screwdriver will usually work.
  • Use the key or screwdriver and turn the valve in an anticlockwise direction
  • There will be an initial rush of air escaping, followed by a trickle of water
  • Check the gauge on the boiler
  • Once the bar is back within the 1 to 2 range close the valve

How Often Should You Check the Pressure Gauge?

If your boiler is in good working order and regularly maintained then you can be relatively confident that the pressure is going to remain consistent and within the safe zone.

Nevertheless, it’s good habit to periodically check the gauge to ensure that it’s OK, and provide you with peace of mind.

This might be no more than a quick glance once a month, or every few weeks.

As the autumn months start to draw in and the temperatures start to give thought to using the central heating once again, then it’s certainly worth checking that the pressure is right before you start firing up the heat.

You don’t want it to fail as the temperatures start to drop.

Conclusion

Whether you have a combi or a more conventional system, your boiler is an integral and extremely important aspect of your home or property. It’s the source of your hot water supply and the reason you can stay warm and comfortable when the weather turns for the colder in the winter months.

You simply don’t want it failing on you when you need it most.

Key to this is the need to ensure your boiler is operating at the right pressure. Too low and it’ll stop the system working. Too high and you jeopardise the system breaking altogether.

A well-maintained system will help ensure that the pressure remains stable, but it’s certainly good practice to routinely monitor the system so you know it’s in the right ‘zone’.

Follow the simple procedures for when you discover the pressure that’s too low or too high to quickly and relatively easily resolve the problem before it escalates to a major issue.

And if the problem persists, or you find you are having to take action to reduce or increase the boiler pressure frequently, then it suggests an underlying boiler problem that will require the services of a qualified heating engineer.

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Your Guide To Smoke Alarms & Fire Safety

There are three basic types of fire alarms or smoke detectors:

  • Battery powered alarms. These are simple to install and only require basic DIY skills.
  • Wired alarms. Can only be installed by a professional electrician.
  • Business premises fire alarm systems. Can only be installed by a commercial building fire alarm specialist contractor. Not only will specialist electrical skills for installation be required but also an in-depth understanding of how the alarms function together with the various levels of safety legislation and regulations that are in force and govern the use of this type of fire alarm.

A fire alarm or smoke detector price for installation comparison shown in the table below will at a glance give an indication of the costs involved.

Smoke Alarm type Duration Material Cost labour Cost
Simple stand-alone battery alarms. 1 to 2 hours £50 £100 to £150
Direct wired alarms. 4 to 5 hours £130 £150 to £200
Business fire alarm system. 1 week £1500 £1500

 

Remember that these prices and durations are indicative only and will vary depending on

  • What part of the country the work takes place.
  • The complexity of the job.
  • The type of detectors used.
  • What legislation needs to be complied with.

Role Of Smoke Alarms & Safety

Fire prevention and the protection of life and property are very important and must not be jeopardised by underspending or bad management. In an ideal world, every property would be connected to the local fire station and the firefighters would automatically know when and where a fire was taking place. In practice, of course, this would be just impractical, almost impossible and with the sensitivity of domestic smoke alarms that are on sale they would be turning up at your house every time you made toast and the kitchen smoke alarm was activated.

So in practice, there are a number of hierarchies of hazard and risk. In private houses, it is considered the minimum to have a smoke alarm on each floor outside the bedroom doors and one downstairs, possibly in the front hallway. Most alarms that are installed in a newbuild house are mains electricity hard-wired smoke detectors and are linked so that when one alarm is activated, they all are.

In rented houses, they have to be mains powered and interconnected smoke alarms even if the house is not new.  Remember that although single battery powered detector alarms can be installed by an amateur, it is extremely important that hard-wired alarms be installed by a professional electrician.

In commercial buildings, schools, colleges and public buildings the requirements are even stricter. Not only are there alarms fitted at appropriate locations, but there are also different types of fire extinguishers available. Sometimes, usually in schools and hospitals, fire service smoke alarms connect the establishment to the station house.  The main factor that defines all these different cases is one of cost vs risk of many people becoming harmed in the case of a fire. Obviously, if there is little risk and not many people at risk then the type of smoke alarm installation will not be very sophisticated and correspondingly low cost, something along the lines of a smoke alarm battery powered detector or a simple wired smoke alarm connected to the mains electricity. Conversely, if the property is considered high risk because flammable substances are stored there and there are many people at risk then a smoke and fire alarm will be installed either connected as a wired smoke detector or more commonly these days installed as a system of wireless smoke alarms.

Batteries

The type of smoke detector battery fitted inside some of the best smoke alarms is actually those whose purpose is to provide a backup for the mains electricity powered system. They are rechargeable from the mains and only come into play if there is a power outage. These power cells are lithium batteries and generally have a 10-year lifespan. Because of this, they are not usually replaceable as a spare part, but after the 10 years is up, simply replace the whole unit.

The other type of battery that commonly goes inside smoke and fire detectors is a 9v PP3 rectangular type battery. Sometimes however other types are used such as the AA and the AAA batteries, especially in the cheaper models. Once you have replaced the battery (any type) press the test button on the alarm that will let you know that the smoke detector system is once more up and running.

Smoke Detector Benefits

A smoke alarm is a device that in the event of a fire, smoke detectors inside the device energise a circuit which results in an alarm. There are in fact two main systems that are commonly used in domestic fire alarm smoke detectors.

  • This type uses a beam of light to detect smoke.
  • This type uses radiation detectors to register whether smoke is present.

Both types rely on the fact that smoke in a chamber will obscure the amount of light or block the radiation being detected. Any decrease in the intensity of either will automatically set off the alarm.

Although not exactly a smoke alarm, a carbon monoxide detector is considered as essential as a smoke alarm in the home or in fact anywhere where an open fire or any heating systems involving burning fuel are installed. Carbon monoxide is a poisonous, colourless and odourless gas produced by the incomplete combustion of wood, fossil fuels and in fact any flammable substance. The combustion of carbon in oxygen is usually a two-step process. When a flammable substance burns it initially uses oxygen to produce carbon monoxide. The Carbon monoxide then burns again to produce carbon dioxide. It makes sense then that if there is not enough oxygen available for complete combustion then carbon monoxide will never convert into non-poisonous carbon dioxide. What makes carbon monoxide so dangerous is its extreme reactivity with any oxygen available. If animals (including humans) inhale carbon monoxide, the gas reacts with the oxygen already in the blood, depriving the brain and other organs of life-giving oxygen. It is for this reason that fossil fuel heaters must be regularly checked to ensure they are burning efficiently.  Open fires can be just as bad because with modern building and insulation techniques there is less likely to be any draughts in a room replenishing oxygen that has been used in combustion. The result is incomplete combustion which will always produce carbon monoxide. In order to prevent unconsciousness and death, carbon monoxide detectors should be installed in every room that has a fire.

Features To Look For In Smoke Alarms

When it comes down to it, even the best smoke detector will not give proper safety coverage if it is installed incorrectly and with disregard for any instructions given by the manufacturer especially if it is a DIY installation. It is for this reason that the best detectors will be those that are the simplest to install with the least number of possible mistakes that could occur.

The types that only a professional can install (hard wired in domestic settings and alarm systems in commercial or public buildings) will depend on the level of expertise needed to install. In these cases, simple installation or modular installation will result in more efficient operation, lower installation charges and hopefully lower maintenance costs.

Simple battery powered alarms are always the easiest and simplest to install, only requiring the correct placement, the fitting of two fixings in the ceiling and the connection of the correct battery. As long as the manufacturer’s instructions are followed to the letter then this type will do exactly what is intended.  It must be mentioned at this stage that some smoke detectors are designed with disabilities in mind. For householders with hearing impairment, there is no reason why a flashing light cannot replace the sonic alarm signal. These will, however, have to be installed correctly by a professional.

For directly wired alarms, the only variation between this and the simple DIY alarms is that a professional electrician is required to install the power supply and connect alarm triggers (remember that when one activates, they all activate). In case of a power outage, these ones also have a back-up rechargeable battery that needs to be periodically checked.

The commercial alarm systems are the most complex and theoretically, are the type with the most features to go wrong.

The main features to look for include.

Battery powered Hard wired Commercial alarm systems
Reasonable purchase price Reasonable purchase price Reasonable installation price
Clear installation instructions Clear installation instructions Finance or monthly payment scheme
Easy to install Ease of installation Compatibility with existing security alarms
Long battery life. Does not require separate wiring circuit Competent and qualified installation company
Easy availability of battery Loud alarm signal Compliance with relevant regulations
Easy battery replacement Compliance with national and international regulations Comprehensive call-out and maintenance programme
Loud alarm signal Simple maintenance procedures
Compliance with national and international regulations Qualified electricians

The features listed above are generalisations and will vary depending on your own individual and unique circumstances. Always get advice from a professional before choosing which alarm system is correct for you. Having said that, for most domestic situations the simple battery powered detectors are quite adequate but for new builds, you will find that hard-wired alarm systems are fitted as standard.

Doing It Yourself

That depends on the type of system you have. The simple battery powered detectors are designed for ease of installation and are perfectly suitable for the DIY market. As long as you follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly there should be no problems.

If you have a hard-wired detector, then there should be no problems as long as you are just replacing an old detector for a new one. If however there is any wiring work to be done, compliance issues to consider or anything more complex it is always best to employ a qualified electrician or fire alarm installation contractor to do the work. It is worth contacting your home insurance company about this because you may be under an obligation to employ professionals with certain qualifications or who belong to specific professional organisations in order to be covered under the insurance policy.

If you have a property into which members of the public have access then you will find that your property needs to comply with specific fire regulations. You will also have to employ a specialist company who belong to specific professional organisations in order to comply. Contact your local authorities for advice.

To finish

Ultimately all these features and the regulations with which your fire alarm system must comply, boil down to whether the installation will keep you, your family, the people who visit and your property safe. Any system of alarms, no matter how simple or how complex will ultimately fail if they do not do what they have been designed for. This comes down to ensuring the detectors are sited correctly, are properly detecting changes in the ambient atmosphere, are correctly interpreting the information and are communicating this information to you the owner.

Be wary of detectors that seem too cheap because these may be substandard imports that do not comply fully with the regulations. These will give the homeowner a false sense of security and may ultimately be the cause of deaths, injury and property damage.

Smoke detectors, fire alarms and carbon monoxide detectors all have their place in our lives and will all perform a certain function if installed correctly and in compliance with specific regulations. Always make sure that whatever fire alarms or related detectors you choose are fit for purpose or else you may as well not bother having them fitted at all.